IPEX / Products / WARMRITE RESIDENTIAL APPLICATIONS

In new homes, WarmRite Floor® can be installed throughout the house as the primary heating source. In older homes, pipes are usually connected to an existing heat source.

For retrofit or secondary heating applications, piping can be installed in walls or ceilings behind drywall, or connected to hydronic heating devices such as baseboard heaters and standalone panel radiators.

Q. How much more does an in-floor system cost compared to a forced air or a baseboard system?

Installation cost is a function of size and complexity of the system. It will cost more to install, but not as much as some perceive, and possibly, less to operate—up to 30% less. Payback depends on the cost of energy used to run the system, and the heat settings you choose.

Q. Do I need a contractor to install my system?

Yes, installing a heating system requires a tradesperson, since it demands a lot of specific knowledge related to the subject. So, yes, you do need a contractor to fully install your system.

Q. Who should I call for a quote?

Homeowners must contact a contractor. Contact IPEX for a contractor in your area.

Q. How is the water heated?

There are a few ways – you can use an existing hot water tank for supplemental systems or a dedicated approved water tank or boiler for primary systems. These heat sources can use oil, gas, electric, or whatever fuel source is available or desired.

Q. How does radiant heat compare with other heating systems, or can they be used in combination?

Although the initial cost of radiant heat is higher than a forced air system, energy savings with radiant heat may reach up to 30%.
Your forced air system turns itself on many times a day, whereas the radiant system only turns itself on a few times a day. The forced air system heats air; the radiant system heats a thermal mass. Once that mass is heated, it gives off heat on a continuous basis not requiring the system to turn itself on until that mass cools down. The efficiency here is that it takes a long while before a concrete slab cools itself down and it requires for the system to be turn on to bring the slab back up to temperature.
There is no heat stack effect at the ceiling. On an 8' high ceiling with a forced air system, all of your heat accumulates at the ceiling level, leaving it cooler where you really need the heat: in the 0' - 7' range, which is your living space.
A forced air system uses a blower, which makes noise. The radiant system is silent. You will never know when it is running.
A forced air system blows around all of the dust particles in the air. This is hazardous to someone with asthma. In a radiant system, no heating vents or heating ducts are required and there is no blower to blow around all of those particles.
A forced air system heats the air around you and then routes itself to the ceiling area. A radiant system heats your floor and all of the objects around you, such as your couch, chairs, coffee tables etc. Everything around you is warm.
A rad system requires higher water temperature than a radiant floor heating system. Although a rad system may be the next best alternative to radiant floor heating, it is not considered the better way.
A rad system is more efficient than a forced air system, however, not more efficient than radiant in-floor heating. A rad system uses a supply temperature of 140–160°F as opposed to 90–125°F for a radiant in-floor system.

In retrofits, it is a good match to combine in-floor heating with existing radiator systems.

Q. Can I use a WarmRite system to melt snow on my walkways?

Yes, IPEX has developed specific snowmelt products and accessories, and provides design information to serve these applications. Contact IPEX for a contractor in your area.

At this stage, it is difficult to cost a system for you.

We would have to size your house to see exactly what materials would be required and how much we’d need. What bell and whistles would you like with the system? Also, would you be using a boiler or hot water tank? Would you require boiler protection? What type of floor construction would be used to install this system into your house: top pour, in-joist or sleeper?

In short, there are many variables involved in determining the cost of a system for your house. Contact IPEX for a contractor in your area, who can assist with a quote.

Q. What if there is a leak in the system?

The system will not develop any leaks on its own when installed properly. However, once in-floor heating is installed, it is important for every trade that works on the house to know there is piping installed in the floor and where.

If somebody happens to damage a pipe (for example, by drilling a hole into it), the system can be repaired in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

First, the location of the damage must be identified; then, the pipe has to be uncovered to access the damage. Depending on the extent, the damaged part can be cut out and replaced using “repair couplings”. Once the system is pressure tested, the concrete can be repaired and everything is good as new.

Q. What if there is a problem after the system has been professionally installed and we have a new floor covering on top? Is it the manufacturer’s or installer's problem?

IPEX offers a manufacturer’s warranty on the materials: 25 years for pipe, 3 years for WarmRite panels, and 1 year on the individual components. IPEX does not warrant the work of the installing contractor.

Q. Why is WarmRite better than other systems?

While all radiant heating systems are based on the same concept, each has distinct features. IPEX offers pre-assembled control panels with an off-white cabinet and door that you can either hang on your wall or install as a built-in unit, so all you see is a cabinet door. These panels house all the necessary manifolds, circulators and wiring modules in a compact, professional enclosure.

Each and every IPEX panel is tested prior to leaving the factory.

Other manufacturers tend to sell their system as individual components that are not contained within a cabinet. By the time you are done installing all necessary components, you may require an 8' wall, since your components will not be contained within a single unit.

Also, only IPEX uses XPA® tubing with no exterior oxygen barrier—the barrier is built right into the pipe. This barrier is a layer of aluminum bonded between two layers of cross-linked polyethylene. This allows for minimal to no chance of damage to the barrier. It also transmits heat better than conventional PEX tubing and retains its shape once laid, so that a single person is capable of installing it.

Q. How is the system temperature controlled?

A temperature-sensing device, usually a thermostat, monitors the room temperature. This signals the heating system when heat is needed or when the temperature setting is satisfied. It works the same way as any other heating system.

Q. I'm thinking of putting WarmRite in our basement when we finish it—how much head room will it take up?

Retrofitting floor heating is always an option. If fitted on top of the existing floor, WarmRite will take up no more than 1-1/2”. This is for concrete or gypcrete topping pours.

Using the ‘sandwich’ system adds only 1 inch to the floor level. This amount of change in the internal height is practically unnoticeable.

Q. Can the system be used to cool the floor in the summer?

In concrete-based installations the answer is yes. However, so far in North America, there is very limited use of radiant floor cooling.

Q. Do you provide engineering drawings?

Yes, IPEX will study the heat loss design and provide a loop layout for building permits.

Q. We are planning to build a new home with pine plank flooring, probably 3/4" thick, throughout 80% of the house. Does radiant heating lend itself well to this type of situation?

The Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association (NOFMA) says:

“In summary, wood flooring and radiant heating can perform very well together for the life of the structure. Be sure the job site is ready for the flooring installation and check the moisture content of the flooring to establish the present condition and provide necessary spacing for the expected movement.”

Can we install a radiant floor system with the outside walls insulated? Would a baseboard system work better since we have an unheated area below the sunroom?

Radiant in-floor heating would be fine for this sort of application. There are three methods of installing radiant in-floor heating into your sunroom:

Top pour. In this application, you will lay the tubing onto your existing sub-floor. Because you have an unheated crawl space below, you will want to lay insulation onto your sub-floor before laying the tubing and placing bat-insulation into your joist cavities. This is the most efficient way of installing the radiant heat.

Ideal for both new builds and renovations, K-Tiles may be installed directly over wooden sub floors or on concrete slabs and provide an efficient comfortable radiant floor heating experience when combined with WarmRite Floor heat transfer plates and XPA pipe.

To maximize the amount of heat transfer to the finished flooring surface, an additional reflective foil layer may be installed prior to laying our K-Tiles. The WarmRite Floor aluminum heat transfer plates act to evenly disperse the heat generated by the system across the finished flooring material. Ensure that all 3/8” XPA pipe is snuggly fitted into transfer plates and half circles within the K-Tiles.

Install the appropriate flooring underlayment overtop of the K-Tile assembly. The flooring underlayment provides the necessary support for the finished floor and also assists in distributing the heat load evenly to the floor surface.

In-joist. Install your tubing inside the joist cavities along the side of the joist. On the underside of the joist, install heat transfer plates to drive the heat upward. You must use some bat-insulation as well.

Because of the wide swings of heat gain and heat loss in a sunroom, you will want to use a thermostat and a slab sensor for temperature control.

Q. What are heat transfer plates and are they necessary?

Heat transfer plates are used to improve the heat transfer from the heated pipe to the floor.

In non-concrete or gypcrete-based systems, the piping system is mounted in the air space between the joists. In this type of application, there is no good conducting material surrounding the pipe, so the heat transfer path is limited. Above certain heat loads, the in-joist system cannot transfer enough heat to the floor.

Heat transfer plates were invented to improve the heat transfer rate by introducing a conductive metal device that surrounds the pipe and directly conducts the heat into the floor.

In all applications where a high heat load is calculated and there is no possibility to install a concrete-based radiant floor, heat transfer plates should be used.

Q. What is the difference between XPA® composite tubing and PEX tubing?

Composite XPA® and PEX tubing come from the same plastic pipe family. XPA® is a metal/plastic structure that was developed as an improvement on all-plastic PEX pipe, and is available exclusively from IPEX.

XPA® tubing has many advantages over conventional PEX:

Reduces the pipe wall thickness,
Improves the heat transfer rate through the pipe wall, and
Dramatically lowers the rate of expansion and contraction.

Physical characteristics have also improved, since the metal layer of composite tubing retains its shape. So, once composite pipe is bent it will retain that shape without reinforcement or tie downs.

IPEX offers both XPA® composite tubing as well as conventional PEX pipe, for situations that don’t warrant use of a composite.

A top pour is always more efficient than an in-joist application.

Top pour supply temperature: 85 - 95°F,

In-joist supply temperature: 120 - 140°F,

If you decide to go top pour, you must verify with your architect/engineer that your floor can handle the additional dead load. Depending on the thickness of the concrete and the material, a top pour can add up to an additional 10 - 20 pounds per square foot to the dead loading of the floor.

Will the top pour be more expensive than the in-joist to install? Not really and if it is, not by much. In the top pour application you are paying for additional material and sometimes the up-front cost of the pump truck to make the trip to the job site; in the in-joist application, you are paying for the additional labor to pull the tubing through the joist.

Yes, you can run our WarmRite system off your current rad system. How? Depends on how the pipe is installed.

You can install a new circuit of tubing in your joist cavity from below and then insulate your joist cavity to prevent heat from migrating downward. If you choose to do an in-joist application, may want to look at removing the 1/4" sub floor and possibly the hardwood to eliminate a lot of the resistance it will create for the heat to migrate upwards.
Your second option is to embed your tubing in a 1.5" topping pour of lightweight concrete on your existing sub-floor. Check with your architect that your sub-floor can support the additional dead load of 10-20 pounds per square foot. You will have to add a 3-way mixing valve to mix down your current boiler supply water temperature to the appropriate supply water temperature for the WarmRite Floor® system and then connect your supply and return lines used for your rad to your control panel.

An in-floor heating system would be very applicable in the construction stage of your home. If your addition in the back will be made up of a concrete pad, you can embed the pipe inside of the concrete. Concrete is the best way to transmit the heat.

When constructing the 2nd floor addition, you can install the tubing inside of your joist cavity with reflective insulation on the underside of the joist, or, you can lay the tubing on your sub-floor and pour a thin slab of lightweight concrete. Have your architect confirm that the sub-floor will bear the additional weight (10 -20 pounds of dead loading per sq ft.).

You can really use any type of concrete if your floor can support it: lightweight concrete or gypcrete. You need to confirm with the architect/engineer whether your floor can support the dead load on that area. Depending on the slab material and the thickness that you would like to pour, the thin slabs can add anywhere from 10 - 20 pounds per square foot to the dead loading of the floor structure.

Q. Would an in-floor system meet residential fire codes?

XPA® tubing has a flame spread and smoke development rating of 5, which meets fire code regulations.

Q. Is noise a problem with all that tubing in the floor?

Correctly installed in-floor heating systems are silent. If there is noise, there may be a problem with the system.

That said, when PEX pipe is used in ‘in-joist’ installations, it is possible to hear some creaking when the system is heating up, since the pipe expands and moves in the joist space. Continuous operation with ‘outdoor reset control’ eliminates this condition because there is no abrupt temperature change in these systems. Composite pipe systems do not have this problem because the contraction/expansion rate is much lower.

Q. What is outdoor reset control and is it necessary?

Outdoor reset is a control method based on the following concept: